Humboldt Farm Fish Wine opened a week ago in the old Strings space on 17th Avenue, introducing Denver to a overhauled space – now it is airy and wood-hued; the old space, bless its heart, had once sung, but seemed claustrophobic and a bit fussy by the end – and a different vibe.
I’ve been twice since the opening, and am a big fan of the way the team took what was a sort of wandering, confusing series of rooms with an almost hidden bar and turned it into a cheery, open restaurant, a place to hang out for oysters and martinis, nab a lunchtime salad, or tear into a filet mignon on a Friday night.
And on Saturdays and Sundays, starting this weekend, you can also hit Humboldt for bottomless mimosas and champagne cocktails (that come in a variety of styles), eggs benedict, pain perdu, and a smoked fish platter that, as a smoked-fish maniac, made my heart go flap-a-flap like the tail on a salmon headed up the Copper River. Chef DJ Nagle, too, is threatening a hangtown fry oyster, which involves fried oysters and bacon. Please, chef – turn those threats into deeds.
The joint is big on seafood, and pushes oysters any way it can. This is something to applaud.
The just-launched brunch runs from 10 a.m. until 3 p.m. both weekend days.v
Oct. 30, 2013