Pearls for Oysters: A Raw-Bar Roundup


This splashy Uptowner set out to specialize in seafood, and the proof is in the oysters. Five or six varieties await on ice daily, perhaps Wiannos from Cape Cod or Kumamotos from the aptly named Humboldt Bay in California; they also come broiled with crumbs in tarragon-lemon butter, fried with sweet-pepper relish and aïoli, and baked with Mornay sauce and spinach. (That’s in addition to classics like clam chowder, shrimp cocktail and steamed mussels, naturally.)

By Ruth Tobias